An aspen hillside in Fish Lake Basin, in the Fishlake National Forest, early in the autumn turn — one clone at the centre of the frame has gone deep orange and red while every aspen around it is still green and yellow-green, which is how one clone is told from its neighbours. Dark outcrops break through the slope above, spruce and fir stand in ranks through the aspen, and a small white outbuilding sits in the willow flat at the bottom of the draw. The pioneer towns along I-15 and US-89, Cove Fort and the Manti temple — the rest of what this region is made of — are not in the picture.
Intermountain Forest Service, USDA Region 4 Photography / public domain via Wikimedia Commons
Utah · Region

Central Utah

The heartland between the Wasatch Front and the red-rock south — pioneer towns along I-15, Cove Fort, Big Rock Candy Mountain, Fish Lake, and the Manti Temple.

24 places to explore

This is the broad middle of the state, the country most travelers only blow through at seventy miles an hour on their way to somewhere else — the long I-15 and US-89 corridors stitching the Wasatch Front to the southern red rock. But the heartland rewards a slower look, in pioneer towns, high cool mountains, and a handful of genuine curiosities.

Along the interstate, the old farm towns line up beneath the peaks: Nephi, at the foot of Mount Nebo, the highest summit in the entire Wasatch Range; Scipio on its little lake; and Beaver, a tidy ranching town famous for its cheese and, improbably, as the birthplace of both the outlaw Butch Cassidy and Philo Farnsworth, the father of television. Where I-15 meets I-70 stands Cove Fort, a squat fortress of black volcanic rock built in 1867 and preserved whole, down to the heavy wooden doors.

The back roads are better still. Up Marysvale Canyon glows the yellow-and-orange hill of Big Rock Candy Mountain, named for the old hobo ballad about a paradise of lemonade springs. Nearby, Fremont Indian State Park was born when highway crews cutting I-70 unearthed the largest Fremont village ever found, and its museum and canyon walls now hold the rock art they left behind. East of there, Fishlake National Forest cradles Utah's largest mountain lake and Pando — a single quaking aspen of some 47,000 trunks sharing one vast root system, among the largest living things on earth. And over in the green Sanpete Valley, the cream-colored Manti Temple, finished by pioneer hands in 1888, presides from its hill beneath the forested plateau of the Manti-La Sal National Forest.

Come for the drive; stay for the pioneer forts, the singing mountain, and the oldest forest you will ever walk through.

What to See in Central Utah

24 places across the region, grouped by what they are.

Geology & Rock Formations

A two-lane highway seen from the road itself, curving right beneath a steep hillside of pale yellow and ochre rock cut into ribs and gullies. Pines and a river line the left side, a few small roadside buildings sit at the foot of the slope, and cumulus stands over the ridge.

Big Rock Candy Mountain

Marysvale

The real mountain that inspired the famous hobo folk song

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A steep amphitheater of deep red eroded rock ribbed into fins, spires and gullies, dropping away below a rim of dark conifers and green brush. Small pines and shrubs cling to the red slopes, and a hazy blue ridge closes the horizon at the right.

Devil's Kitchen

Nephi

A pocket of red-rock hoodoos high in the green Wasatch — a "little Bryce Canyon"

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Natural Areas

A hillside stand of quaking aspen in full autumn color, white trunks rising in close ranks under canopies of bright yellow and gold, photographed from below against a deep blue sky. Sagebrush and bare reddish soil cover the slope across the foreground.

Fishlake National Forest

Richfield

Home to Pando — the largest living organism on Earth

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A shallow creek running through a canyon bottom between banks of bright spring willow and cottonwood, with dark conifers climbing the slopes on both sides toward a forested ridge. Grass and sagebrush fill the foreground and cumulus clouds stand above the skyline.

Manti-La Sal National Forest

Manti

Alpine peaks rising above red rock desert

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A snow covered peak with a sharply serrated summit ridge seen at a distance through winter haze, above layered blue grey foothills. A town spreads across the pale valley floor along the bottom of the frame and the sky above is a flat wash of haze.

Mount Nebo

Nephi

At 11,928 feet, the highest and southernmost peak in the Wasatch Range

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Hikes & Trails

A turquoise reservoir seen from a juniper covered bluff above it, a pale beach curving along the near shore, a few small boats out on the water and vehicles parked at a day use area. Wooded hills ring the far side and broken cloud fills the sky.

Palisade State Park

Sterling

A pioneer-built lake turned central Utah's favorite state park

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Skyline Drive

Fairview

A hundred miles of dirt along the 10,000-foot crest of the Wasatch Plateau

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Historic Sites

A small single-story cabin of weathered hewn logs photographed straight on, with a wood shingle roof, a red brick chimney, a plank door at the center and a white framed sash window on each side. A large cottonwood rises behind it and open pasture runs back to a hillside.

Butch Cassidy Boyhood Home

Circleville

The restored Circleville cabin where the West's most famous outlaw spent his teens

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The courtyard inside the fort, looking across a mown lawn to a long single-story range built of dark volcanic stone with brick chimneys, green doors and a brick walk. A timber gallery runs above an open gateway on the right, and a flag flies from a pole beyond the wall.

Cove Fort

Beaver

A beautifully restored 1867 pioneer fort at the crossroads of two interstates

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A two-story building of pale cream limestone seen from across the street under a heavy purple storm sky. Ephraim Co-operative Mercantile Association is lettered across the front above striped awnings and a yellow door, and a beehive with the words Holiness to the Lord fills the gable. A second stone building with a small cupola stands to the right.

Ephraim Co-op

Ephraim

The 1871 cooperative store that outlived the economy it was built to replace

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Petroglyphs pecked into a red rock face, the pale figures standing out where the darker surface has been cut away. Several horned four-legged animals cross the panel, a long wavy line runs down the left side, and a human figure with outstretched arms and legs stands at the upper left.

Fremont Indian State Park

Richfield

The largest known Fremont Indian village ever discovered

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An archival War Relocation Authority photograph looking down over the camp from a raised vantage: long rows of low barracks and utility buildings standing on flat bare desert, unpaved roads, a fence line, and a watchtower raised on four braced legs alone on open ground. A single car sits on the road below and distant ranges close the horizon.

Topaz War Relocation Center

Delta

The Sevier Desert camp where the United States imprisoned 11,000 Japanese Americans

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Towns & Gateways

A red brick county courthouse photographed head-on from the empty street, its white stone trim weathered and peeling, a clock tower rising to a dark red dome and weathervane, COUNTY COURT HOUSE lettered across the frieze, and two curving flights of steps climbing to arched double doors between tall shade trees.

Beaver

Beaver

A charming main street town with surprisingly good food

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A broad red brick college building seen head-on from a parking lot, its white pedimented gable carrying a carved crest and SNOW COLLEGE cut into the stone above an arched entrance porch with white columns. Blue spruces stand along the front and a lawn runs down to the street.

Ephraim

Utah's Little Denmark and the home of Snow College

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A two-story building of rough faced tan sandstone photographed from below at its corner, MUSEUM lettered on a panel above a round arched doorway. Dark metal silhouettes of people and animals are mounted along the lower wall, shrubs crowd the base, and the sky above is flat white overcast.

Fairview

The north gate of the Heritage Highway, home to a near-complete Ice Age mammoth

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Gunnison

Sanpete's southern hub, home to Utah's oldest operating theater

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An archival black and white photograph looking across a dirt road and fenced garden plots toward the temple standing on its hill. Laundry hangs on lines, a small bungalow with a porch sits at the right, and a bare quarried hillside topped with conifers and a tall chimney rises beyond.

Manti

Sanpete's first settlement, crowned by an 1888 oolite temple

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A carved sandstone welcome monument on a low mound of stacked flagstones, reading Welcome To Mayfield above a ridgeline, a trout, a two-horse team with a teamster, an elk head, and Founded in 1873. A carved profile of a Native man sits at the lower right beside the words Arapeen Valley, with a corral, a red barn and a dry hillside behind.

Mayfield

Gateway to Twelve Mile Canyon and the Skyline Drive high country

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A block of 19th-century brick commercial buildings on Mount Pleasant's Main Street seen obliquely down the street, arched upper windows and patterned brick cornices above shopfronts with green-framed glass, BANK lettered into one parapet, a faded painted ghost sign at the left edge, bare street trees and green lamp standards along the sidewalk and a single car at the kerb.

Mount Pleasant

A National Register Main Street and Utah's oldest boarding school

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A cream colored house with a brown shingled roof and a white porch rail on a quiet residential street, an open garage beside it and a flatbed truck at the curb. Behind the rooftops a long ridged mountain rises, its summit and upper slopes streaked with snow.

Nephi

Nephi

A quiet ranching town at the foot of Mount Nebo

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A two-lane highway running straight toward low brown foothills, photographed from the empty roadway. A Chevron station with a blue and white canopy stands on the left behind a white rail fence, and a tall Texaco sign on a black pole marks a second station and store on the right.

Scipio

Scipio

A tiny crossroads town where I-15 meets the old highway

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A church of pale rough faced limestone seen from across the street, a steep shingled spire and weathervane rising above an octagonal tower, gothic arched windows along the front, and a dark red door set under a pointed arch. Mature trees frame it on both sides and a clipped lawn runs to the sidewalk.

Spring City

An entire pioneer town preserved on the National Register

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A wide green valley seen from high on one side: irrigated hayfields in strips of green and tan with sprinkler lines running, farmsteads and a small town spread among cottonwoods, and a pale turquoise reservoir set against white bluffs in the middle distance. Dry hills and a long blue range close the horizon.

Sterling

A highway hamlet and the doorway to Palisade State Park

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Architecture

The temple seen from the foot of its hill, looking steeply upward: cream oolite limestone walls beneath a castellated parapet, rows of tall arched windows, and two towers, the taller one at the right. A mown green slope and a rough stone retaining wall fill the lower half of the frame.

Manti Temple

Manti

A striking pioneer-era temple crowning a hilltop above the Sanpete Valley

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Scenic Drives through Central Utah

Scenic Byway

Highway 20

Twenty unsigned miles between I-15 and US-89 over Bear Valley — the Old Spanish Trail crossing that carried Panguitch's founders and the Quilt Walk of 1864.

20.5 mi · 0.5 hrs
Scenic Byway

Nebo Loop Scenic Byway

Thirty-eight winding miles over the back of Mount Nebo, the highest peak in the Wasatch — a CCC-built byway from Payson to Nephi, past alpine lakes, a 9,300-foot overlook, and a pocket of red-rock hoodoos. Closed in winter, unforgettable in fall.

38 mi · 2 hrs
Scenic Byway

U.S. 50: The Great Basin Crossing

The far end of the Loneliest Road: 150 empty miles from Ely across the Great Basin to Delta and the Topaz camp.

153 mi · 3 hrs
Scenic Byway

US-89 Heritage Highway

Forty-some miles down the floor of Sanpete Valley, US-89 threads the best-preserved string of pioneer Mormon towns in Utah — the "Little Denmark" heart of the Mormon Pioneer National Heritage Area, from Fairview's Ice Age mammoth past Manti's 1888 temple to Gunnison's century-old Casino Star Theatre.

43 mi · 1.5 hrs

Stories from Central Utah

Geology

The Fault Under Everything

Most of Utah lives on the Wasatch Front because one crack in the crust raised the mountains, dropped the valleys, cut the benches the cities are terraced onto, and warms the springs — and the same crack is the largest earthquake hazard in the interior West, quiet now for a very long time.

7 min read
Nature

Where One Tree Ends

Every gold aspen hillside in Utah is a handful of giant, ancient, single organisms — and the patchwork of autumn color is a map of where one stops and the next begins. They are also quietly disappearing.

6 min read
History

The Store That Tried to Secede from the Economy

Brigham Young built a network of cooperative stores to wall Utah off from American capitalism. The one in Ephraim outlived the experiment — and ended up a co-op again.

5 min read
Culture

The Small Print at the Side of the Road

Utah's historical markers carry two stories: the one on the front, and the one at the bottom — a hundred and twenty-five years of daughters, sons, counties, towns, and one museum deciding what deserved bronze.

6 min read
History

The People the Valley Was Named For

Sanpete is a settler's spelling of San Pitch — the Ute people whose homeland this was, and whose displacement set off the longest, hardest war in Utah's history.

6 min read
History

The Valley They Called Little Denmark

How a wave of Scandinavian converts settled Sanpete in the 1850s and built a stretch of Utah that still half-belongs to the old country.

5 min read
History

The Roads the Depression Built

How three million out-of-work young men built the mountain roads Utah still drives on.

5 min read

Central Utah rewards the unhurried. Pick a base, fan out, and let the country between the headline stops surprise you.

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