The Portneuf River running dark between snowy banks under bare trees
JF Hobbs / CC BY 3.0 via Wikimedia Commons
Idaho · Region

The Portneuf & Bear River Country

Newe country from Fort Hall to Bear Lake — Boa Ogoi, the Bear River Massacre site now in Shoshone hands, the Oregon Trail at old Fort Hall, Pocatello, Franklin, Lava Hot Springs and Soda Springs.

10 places to explore

The Northwestern Shoshone called the bend of the Bear River north of today's Preston Boa Ogoi, the Big River, and its hot springs made a good winter home for generations. Before dawn on January 29, 1863, Army volunteers out of Fort Douglas attacked the camp there and killed hundreds of men, women and children — one of the largest massacres of Native people in American history. For most of the century that followed, the only memorial was a 1932 roadside monument calling it a battle. In 2018 the Northwestern Band of the Shoshone Nation bought several hundred acres of the site and began restoring it as its own ground.

Five years after Boa Ogoi, the 1868 Fort Bridger Treaty set aside the Fort Hall Reservation for the Shoshone and Bannock, governed today from Fort Hall by the Shoshone-Bannock Tribes. It takes its name from the trading post Nathaniel Wyeth built on the Snake in 1834, where the Oregon and California trails ran together before parting farther west at the Raft River. Pocatello, the railroad city on the Portneuf, carries the name of a Shoshone leader of those years.

Mormon settlers founded Franklin in 1860 believing they were still in Utah; it is the oldest town in Idaho. East of it the Portneuf and the Bear drain a country of volcanic springs — the hot pools at Lava Hot Springs, the carbonated water at Soda Springs — and US-89 runs south through Montpelier to Bear Lake, the turquoise lake Idaho shares with Utah.

What to See in The Portneuf & Bear River Country

10 places across the region, grouped by what they are.

Geology & Rock Formations

Black Canyon of the Bear River

Grace

A basalt gorge cut by a river that, most of the year, now runs past it in a pipe.

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Pale stalagmites rising from the floor of a lit chamber in Minnetonka Cave

Minnetonka Cave

St. Charles

Found by a grouse hunter, named first for a porcupine and then in a language from the far side of the Rockies. Five kinds of bats winter inside.

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The Soda Springs geyser erupting above its orange mineral terrace beside a town street

Soda Springs Geyser

Soda Springs

Drillers looking for hot water for a swimming pool hit cold soda water under pressure. The town put the geyser on a timer.

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Natural Areas

A black tern swooping low over green marsh grass at Bear Lake National Wildlife Refuge

Bear Lake National Wildlife Refuge

Montpelier

The Bear River crosses this marsh twice: once in a canal into Bear Lake, and once in another canal on its way back out.

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Bathers in the open mineral pool at Lava Hot Springs beside the bathhouse, in a 1939 real-photo postcard

Lava Hot Springs

Lava Hot Springs

The pools belong to the state because the springs left the Fort Hall Reservation and Congress handed them to Idaho in 1902.

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Historic Sites

The green river bottoms of the Bear River at Boa Ogoi, with sagebrush benches rising beyond

Boa Ogoi (Bear River Massacre Site)

Preston

The Northwestern Band bought back the ground where its people were killed in 1863, and is turning farm fields back into the river bottom they knew.

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Dark volcanic outcrops above sagebrush at Massacre Rocks under a blue sky

Massacre Rocks State Park

American Falls

Named for emigrant deaths that happened somewhere else, five months before a massacre that was called a battle.

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A covered wagon lettered for the National Oregon/California Trail Center beside a granite trail post in Montpelier

National Oregon/California Trail Center

Montpelier

Emigrants came down off Big Hill and camped in the clover here. Brigham Young renamed the town; the trail center brings the camp back in costume.

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Towns & Gateways

The brick front of Preston Senior High School behind shade trees

Preston and Napoleon Dynamite

Preston

A farm town in the north end of Cache Valley that a former student turned into a set in the summer of 2003, without changing much of anything.

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The low peaked-roof building of the Shoshone-Bannock Tribal Museum at Fort Hall

Shoshone-Bannock Tribal Museum

Fort Hall

Fort Hall told from the other side of the trade counter, by the tribes whose reservation now surrounds the site of the post.

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Scenic Drives through The Portneuf & Bear River Country

Scenic Byway

U.S. 89 and U.S. 30: The Bear Lake Crossing

From Bear Lake's Utah shore north into Idaho: the refuge, the cave, the emigrants' camp at Montpelier, the Soda Springs geyser and the hot pools at Lava.

82 mi · 2 hrs
Scenic Byway

U.S. 91 and Idaho 34: The Cache Valley Crossing

North from Logan up Cache Valley into Idaho: Franklin, Preston, the Boa Ogoi massacre site, the Black Canyon at Grace and the geyser at Soda Springs.

85 mi · 2 hrs

Stories from The Portneuf & Bear River Country

Geology

Half a Lake

About 18,000 years ago Lake Bonneville broke through Red Rock Pass and emptied half of itself across southern Idaho in a matter of weeks

5 min read

The Portneuf & Bear River Country rewards the unhurried. Pick a base, fan out, and let the country between the headline stops surprise you.

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