Sunset over the Missouri River seen from a steel truss bridge on the Katy Trail.
Heath Cajandig / CC BY 2.0 via Wikimedia Commons
Missouri · Region

The Missouri River: Rhineland to Boonslick

The Katy Trail along the river, Hermann's German houses, the Capitol's Benton mural, Lincoln University, Churchill's Fulton, Arrow Rock and the Missouria homeland.

10 places to explore

West of St. Louis the Missouri bends through bluff country, and for most of the way the Katy Trail follows it on the old Missouri-Kansas-Texas rail bed, 240 miles of it, the longest developed rail-trail in the country. The region reads as one river trip in three parts. First comes the Missouri Rhineland around Hermann and Washington, settled from the 1830s by Germans drawn by Gottfried Duden's account of the valley. Then comes Jefferson City, the capital on its bluff, home to the Capitol and to Lincoln University, with Fulton and its Wren church to the north.

Last is the Boonslick. The salt springs at Boone's Lick, worked from 1805 by Daniel Boone's sons Nathan and Daniel Morgan Boone with the Morrison brothers, gave their name to the whole country around Howard, Cooper and Saline counties and to the road west from St. Charles. Its hemp and tobacco were raised by enslaved people, and by 1880 Black residents were more than half of Arrow Rock's population.

Long before, this was the homeland of the Missouria, who call themselves Nutachi and gave the river and the state their name; their village at the Great Bend is kept at Annie and Abel Van Meter State Park, and their descendants are the Otoe-Missouria Tribe. Sedalia, at the southern edge, is where Scott Joplin studied music and wrote the Maple Leaf Rag.

What to See in The Missouri River: Rhineland to Boonslick

10 places across the region, grouped by what they are.

Geology & Rock Formations

The dark opening of the natural rock tunnel at Rock Bridge, framed by mossy limestone and summer trees.

Rock Bridge Memorial State Park

Columbia

Karst on the edge of Columbia: a boardwalk through a natural rock tunnel to the Devil's Icebox sinkholes, over a cave that is the only known home of the pink planarian.

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Hikes & Trails

The gravel Katy Trail running under a green tree canopy beside an ivy-covered bluff.

Katy Trail State Park

Rocheport

Two hundred forty miles of the old Missouri-Kansas-Texas rail bed between Machens and Clinton, mostly along the Missouri River, first opened in 1990 at Rocheport, where it runs through the railroad's stone tunnel.

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Historic Sites

A black and white view of the stone and timber shelter building in the woods at Van Meter State Park.

Annie and Abel Van Meter State Park

Miami

The homeland of the Missouria, the Nutachi, on the loess ridges at the Great Bend, where Marquette's 1673 map placed their town and a cultural center tells their history.

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The two-story brick Arrow Rock Tavern with its rooftop bell on the main street of Arrow Rock.

Arrow Rock State Historic Site

Arrow Rock

A Boonslick river town of more than 1,000 that the river and railroads left behind, built and worked by enslaved people, now a village of fifty and a National Historic Landmark.

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The shallow salt spring at Boones Lick seeping through green woods.

Boone's Lick State Historic Site

Boonesboro

The salt spring in the Howard County woods that Daniel Boone's sons worked from 1805, whose name spread to a road, a country and the first American settlement of central Missouri.

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A two-story brick house with a columned porch and green shutters at Deutschheim State Historic Site in Hermann.

Deutschheim State Historic Site

Hermann

Two Hermann houses of the 1840s, a violin maker's brick home and a printer's timber house with its own winery, kept as the German home the Missouri Rhineland settlers built.

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Young Hall, a red brick building with a white cupola, across the lawn at Lincoln University in Jefferson City.

Lincoln University and the Soldiers' Memorial

Jefferson City

The school that Black soldiers of the 62nd and 65th U.S. Colored Infantry paid for out of army wages in 1866, now a land-grant university on its Jefferson City hill.

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Towns & Gateways

The rebuilt Church of St. Mary Aldermanbury with its white stone tower at the National Churchill Museum in Fulton.

America's National Churchill Museum

Fulton

The Westminster College campus where Churchill gave the Iron Curtain speech in 1946, with a bombed Wren church from London rebuilt stone by stone above his museum.

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Architecture

The domed limestone Missouri State Capitol and its columned portico and broad front steps under a deep blue sky.

Missouri State Capitol

Jefferson City

The 1917 capitol on the Jefferson City bluff, built after lightning burned its predecessor, with the State Museum downstairs and Thomas Hart Benton's mural of Missouri in the House Lounge.

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Attractions

Cave formations in Meramec Caverns lit in red and blue along a tour passage.

Meramec Caverns

Stanton

A saltpeter cave turned show cave by Lester Dill in 1933, who sold it to Route 66 with barns painted in 14 states, bumper signs and a Jesse James story.

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Scenic Drives through The Missouri River: Rhineland to Boonslick

Scenic Byway

MO-94 and the Katy Trail: St. Charles to Arrow Rock

About 190 miles up the Missouri from St. Charles on Route 94 past Defiance, Augusta and Marthasville, by Jefferson City to Rocheport and Boonville, and on to Arrow Rock.

190 mi · 5 hrs

Stories from The Missouri River: Rhineland to Boonslick

History

A Name on No Map

Little Dixie was never a county or a district, but the hemp and tobacco counties along the Missouri carried slavery deeper than the rest of the state, and its aftermath longer.

3 min read
Nature

The Chutes at Lisbon Bottom

A century of work made the lower Missouri a narrow, deep barge channel, and since 1994 a refuge strung along it has been letting the river back into its bottoms.

3 min read

The Missouri River: Rhineland to Boonslick rewards the unhurried. Pick a base, fan out, and let the country between the headline stops surprise you.

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