Gold Country & the Northern Passes
Frank Schulenburg / CC BY-SA 4.0 via Wikimedia Commons
California · Region

Gold Country & the Northern Passes

Highway 49 through the Mother Lode — Coloma, where the Gold Rush began, the living main streets it left behind, Sacramento at the head of US-50, and the emigrant passes at Donner and Tahoe.

9 places to explore

In January 1848 a sawmill worker pulled flakes of gold out of the American River at Coloma, in the homeland of the Nisenan, and the world arrived within the year. The Gold Rush built Sacramento and San Francisco, filled the Sierra foothills with camps, and fell on Native California as a catastrophe — militias, some paid by the new state, killed thousands, and survivors were driven from country their peoples had held for ages. The rush's other workers got their own injustice: Chinese miners were taxed and hounded off their claims, then hired by the thousands to cut the railroad's tunnels through Donner's granite. The gold country's charm is real, and it is not innocent — this guide tells both.

Highway 49 strings the Mother Lode together like beads: Auburn, Placerville, the white water at Coloma, Nevada City and Grass Valley with their gaslamp main streets and the hard-rock shafts of the Empire Mine, and south through Angels Camp to Columbia, a gold town preserved whole as a state park. Sacramento anchors the region's western edge — the Gold Rush river port turned state capital, with its raised-sidewalk old town, its railroad museum, and the western end of US-50, the road this site has already followed across two states — from here it climbs over Echo Summit to South Lake Tahoe and on toward the Nevada line.

Climb east and the story turns to the passes. At Truckee, the Donner Party's terrible winter of 1846 and 1847 is remembered where it happened; the transcontinental railroad's summit tunnels — Chinese-built, hand-drilled — still bore through the granite above Donner Lake; and over the crest lies Tahoe, the big blue lake at the center of the world of the Wašišiw, the Washoe, the people from here. I-80 still follows the emigrant grade.

What to See in Gold Country & the Northern Passes

9 places across the region, grouped by what they are.

Natural Areas

Emerald Bay State Park

Emerald Bay State Park

South Lake Tahoe

A glacial fjord on Tahoe's west shore with the lake's only island and a Scandinavian house at the water.

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Historic Sites

Columbia State Historic Park

Columbia State Historic Park

Sonora

The Gem of the Southern Mines, still open for business on a car-free Gold Rush main street.

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Donner Memorial State Park

Donner Memorial State Park

Truckee

Where the Donner Party spent the winter of 1846, marked by cabin stone and a monument built to a remembered snow depth.

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Donner Summit Tunnels

Donner Summit Tunnels

Truckee

Granite bored by hand at fourteen inches a day, by Chinese crews the country spent a century forgetting.

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Marshall Gold Discovery State Historic Park

Marshall Gold Discovery State Historic Park

Placerville

The tailrace at Coloma where a carpenter found gold in January 1848 and the world came running.

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Towns & Gateways

Nevada City

Nevada City

Nevada City

Gaslamps, brick storefronts, and the Nisenan who are still fighting to be recognized on their own ground.

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Sacramento

Sacramento

Sacramento

The Gold Rush river port that became the state capital, and jacked itself ten feet into the air to stop drowning.

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Industry & Mining

Empire Mine State Historic Park

Empire Mine State Historic Park

Grass Valley

The oldest, deepest, richest hard-rock gold mine in California, with 367 miles of flooded tunnels underneath.

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Malakoff Diggins State Historic Park

Malakoff Diggins State Historic Park

Nevada City

A canyon washed out of a mountain by water cannon, and the lawsuit that ended hydraulic mining.

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Stories from Gold Country & the Northern Passes

Nature

Where the Hill Went

Water cannons took a mountain apart at Malakoff Diggins and washed 1.5 billion cubic yards of the northern Sierra into the Yuba, the Feather and the Sacramento — and a hundred and forty years after the courts shut the practice down, the debris and the ten million pounds of mercury that went with it are still working their way downstream.

7 min read

Gold Country & the Northern Passes rewards the unhurried. Pick a base, fan out, and let the country between the headline stops surprise you.

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