Joshua Tree & the Southern Deserts
Ken Lund / CC BY-SA 2.0 via Wikimedia Commons
California · Region

Joshua Tree & the Southern Deserts

Two deserts meet at Joshua Tree — Mojave high, Colorado low — with Pioneertown's film-set main street, the accidental Salton Sea, Salvation Mountain, and the badlands and dark skies of Anza-Borrego.

9 places to explore

Joshua Tree National Park sits on the homelands of the Maara'yam, the Serrano, and the Kawiya, the Cahuilla, with the Nüwü, the Chemehuevi, and the 'Aha Makhav using and crossing this country long before it had a boundary — fifteen federally recognized tribal nations are associated with the park today. What the boundary encloses is a meeting of two deserts: the high Mojave, where the Joshua trees grow among heaped monzogranite domes, and the low Colorado, dropping east through the Cholla Cactus Garden into creosote and ocotillo, with Keys View looking clear across the Coachella Valley to the Salton Sea. Climb into the Wonderland of Rocks at golden hour and the place explains its own fame.

The country around the park runs from the sublime to the gloriously strange. Pioneertown, up the hill from Yucca Valley, was built by Hollywood in the 1940s as a permanently standing Western set — people live on Mane Street now, and the honky-tonk at Pappy and Harriet's draws acts far bigger than the room. South and east lies the Salton Sea, California's accidental inland sea, made when the Colorado River burst its irrigation works early in the twentieth century and poured into the basin for two years. It boomed as a resort, then shrank and soured; what remains — the ruins and art of Bombay Beach, the painted folk-art hill of Salvation Mountain at the edge of Slab City — makes one of the strangest drives in the West.

Farther south, Anza-Borrego Desert State Park spreads across badlands, slot canyons, and palm oases, with wildflower springs that can carpet the desert floor and night skies dark enough to navigate by. Winter and spring are this region's season; summer is for the brave and the air-conditioned.

What to See in Joshua Tree & the Southern Deserts

9 places across the region, grouped by what they are.

Natural Areas

Anza-Borrego Desert State Park

Anza-Borrego Desert State Park

Borrego Springs

Six hundred thousand acres of badlands, slot canyons, and palm oases, and the biggest state park in California.

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Cholla Cactus Garden

Cholla Cactus Garden

Twentynine Palms

Ten acres of teddybear cholla that look soft and are anything but, at the seam between two deserts.

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Joshua Tree National Park

Joshua Tree National Park

Twentynine Palms

Where the high Mojave meets the low Colorado, among monzogranite piles and a yucca that is not a tree.

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Salton Sea

Salton Sea

Mecca

California's largest lake, made by accident in 1905 and shrinking ever since.

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Towns & Gateways

Bombay Beach

Bombay Beach

Niland

The lowest town in America: a drowned resort turned open-air art colony, 223 feet below sea level.

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Borrego Springs

Borrego Springs

Borrego Springs

A dark-sky town ringed by state park, with 130 metal beasts loose in the desert around it.

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Palm Springs

Palm Springs

Palm Springs

Cahuilla homeland, checkerboard reservation, mid-century playground, and the square mile the city burned.

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Roadside Stops

Pioneertown

Pioneertown

Yucca Valley

A Western movie set built in 1946 that people moved into and never left.

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Salvation Mountain

Niland

One man, thirty years, half a million gallons of donated paint, and a hill that says God is Love.

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Stories from Joshua Tree & the Southern Deserts

Culture

The Word They Used Was Abatement

Section 14 is one square mile of Agua Caliente land in the middle of downtown Palm Springs, and for decades it was where the city's Black and Latino families lived because racial covenants shut them out of everywhere else — until federal leasing law changed in 1959, the resort business wanted the ground, and the fire department burned 235 houses down.

7 min read

Joshua Tree & the Southern Deserts rewards the unhurried. Pick a base, fan out, and let the country between the headline stops surprise you.

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