A bison bull walking through autumn grass toward the camera, with the herd grazing across the prairie behind, in Custer State Park
Mytownblackhills / CC BY-SA 3.0 via Wikimedia Commons
South Dakota · Region

Custer State Park & the Southern Hills

Maka Oniye, the breathing cave the Lakota came up from, the Custer State Park bison herd, the Needles Highway, Jewel Cave, and Hot Springs' mammoth sinkhole.

5 places to explore

In the southern hills the ground breathes. Wind rushes in and out of a small opening in the limestone at Wind Cave, and Lakota oral tradition remembers it as Oniya Oshoka, the passage through which the first people and the bison came up onto the earth; in modern Lakota it is Maka Oniye, the breathing earth. In 1903 it became the first national park made to protect a cave, and bison graze the prairie above it. Jewel Cave, west of Custer, is one of the longest caves known.

French Creek is where Custer's 1874 expedition reported gold, the news that broke the treaty and filled the hills with miners, and the town that took his name sits beside it. To the east Custer State Park holds granite spires, the Needles Highway threaded between them through tunnels barely a car wide, and one of the largest publicly owned bison herds anywhere, driven in off the hills each fall at the Buffalo Roundup.

At Hot Springs warm water still rises from the ground, and on the edge of town a sinkhole that trapped Columbian and woolly mammoths has been roofed over, the bones left where they lie. Dating published in 2026 puts the bone bed at roughly 160,000 to 230,000 years old, far older than the 26,000 years long claimed for it.

What to See in Custer State Park & the Southern Hills

5 places across the region, grouped by what they are.

Geology & Rock Formations

Mammoth tusks and bones lying exposed in the excavated sinkhole floor at the Mammoth Site in Hot Springs

The Mammoth Site

Hot Springs

A housing lot in Hot Springs where a bulldozer turned up a tusk in 1974 and the developer gave up the subdivision for sixty-one mammoths.

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Natural Areas

Translucent nailhead spar crystals of calcite crusting a surface in Jewel Cave

Jewel Cave National Monument

Custer

A cave the prospectors who found it sold to the government for $750, thought to be two miles long until a climbing couple began to walk it in 1959.

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The narrow Needles Eye Tunnel cut through a wall of granite on SD-87

Needles Highway

Custer

Fourteen miles that Governor Peter Norbeck laid out on foot and horseback through the granite spires, threading a tunnel eight feet wide.

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Thin fins of boxwork crisscrossing the ceiling of Wind Cave in honeycomb-like cells

Wind Cave National Park

Hot Springs

A cave that breathes through a hole the size of a dinner plate, lined with nearly all the boxwork known on Earth, under a prairie restocked with bison shipped from New York.

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Architecture

The dark-shingled State Game Lodge with its stone chimneys and front lawn in Custer State Park

State Game Lodge

Custer

The lodge where Calvin Coolidge spent the summer of 1927, fishing for trout, dedicating Mount Rushmore, and deciding not to run again.

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Scenic Drives through Custer State Park & the Southern Hills

Scenic Byway

Rushmore, the Needles and Wind Cave

About 97 miles through the central and southern Black Hills from Rapid City to Hot Springs: the presidents on Tȟuŋkášila Šákpe, the granite spires of the Needles Highway, Coolidge's summer lodge, the bison range of Custer State Park and the breathing cave the Lakota came up from.

97 mi · 3 hrs

Stories from Custer State Park & the Southern Hills

Nature

Five Calves on the Grand River

The bison that block the road in Custer State Park descend from five calves roped on the northern plains in the early 1880s, when the great herds were all but gone.

5 min read

Custer State Park & the Southern Hills rewards the unhurried. Pick a base, fan out, and let the country between the headline stops surprise you.

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