The steel headframe of the Anselmo Mine in Butte against a blue sky, a red mine building at its foot and the valley beyond
James St. John / CC BY 2.0 via Wikimedia Commons
Montana · Region

Butte, Helena & the Gold Country

Nimiipuu loss at the Big Hole, the gold strikes at Bannack, Alder Gulch and Last Chance Gulch, the vigilantes, and Butte's flooded Berkeley Pit beneath the Anaconda stack.

9 places to explore

In August 1877 about eight hundred Nimiipuu, non-treaty Nez Perce in flight from Idaho, pitched their lodges beside the North Fork of the Big Hole River to rest. Before dawn on August 9 Colonel John Gibbon's infantry and a party of civilian volunteers fired into the sleeping camp. The warriors pinned the soldiers down in the pines while the families escaped south, but between sixty and ninety of their people were dead, most of them women and children. The National Park Service keeps the meadow as a battlefield and as a burial ground.

This was already gold country. John White's party found gold on Grasshopper Creek on July 28, 1862, and Bannack, named for the Bannock people of the region, became the first capital of Montana Territory on May 26, 1864. Alder Gulch, struck in May 1863, proved richer, and Virginia City took the capital in 1865; Last Chance Gulch, worked from July 1864, made Helena, which took it in 1875 and kept it. The camps made their own law. On January 10, 1864, vigilantes hanged Bannack's elected sheriff, Henry Plummer, and two of his deputies without a trial, and by the end of February they had hanged twenty-two men.

Butte made its money underground. On June 8, 1917, a fire in the Granite Mountain and Speculator mines killed 168 men, the deadliest disaster in American hard-rock mining. From 1955 the Anaconda Company took the hill from above instead, demolishing whole neighborhoods for the Berkeley Pit. On April 22, 1982, the pumps were shut off, and the pit has been filling ever since with acidic, metal-laden water; in late 2016 thousands of snow geese landed on it and died. At Anaconda the 585-foot smelter stack still stands, the tallest surviving masonry structure in the world, at the head of a Superfund complex that runs down the Clark Fork.

What to See in Butte, Helena & the Gold Country

9 places across the region, grouped by what they are.

Historic Sites

The red-brick Hotel Meade at Bannack, two storeys with a balcony over the door, beside a weathered false-front saloon on the dirt street

Bannack State Park

Dillon

The first capital's second life: a county seat lost to the railroad, a courthouse turned hotel, a town that emptied slowly.

View details →

Beaverhead Rock

Twin Bridges

The hill Sacagawea recognized in August 1805, the first sure sign that her people were close.

View details →
A dirt path through willows at the Big Hole battlefield, grassy hills and timbered slopes under a grey sky

Big Hole National Battlefield

Wisdom

The government marked this ground for its soldiers in 1883 and left the Nimiipuu camp outside the line until the 1960s.

View details →
The dedication stone of the Granite Mountain/Speculator memorial on its overlook above Butte, a walkway of memorial panels behind

Granite Mountain/Speculator Mine Memorial

Butte

An overlook above the shaft where the 1917 fire began, and the letters some of the trapped men wrote while they waited.

View details →
Pole corrals and a loading chute at Grant-Kohrs Ranch, wet meadow and ranch buildings beyond, snow on the mountains behind

Grant-Kohrs Ranch National Historic Site

Deer Lodge

A Métis trader's 1862 house, a cattle king's headquarters, and a grandson who threw nothing away.

View details →
The mouth of Mann Gulch from the Missouri River, pine and grass rising up the draw beside a limestone cliff

Mann Gulch

Helena

Thirteen markers on a grass slope above the Missouri, where a fire outran a crew of smokejumpers in 1949.

View details →
The Opera House in Virginia City, log and stone under a painted sign and porch, a Model T parked in front and autumn cottonwoods behind

Virginia City

Virginia City

A gold camp one couple began buying in 1944, and the state bought from their family in 1997.

View details →

Towns & Gateways

The Mai Wah building on Mercury Street in Butte, red brick with a painted sign for noodles and chop suey across its cornice

Mai Wah Museum

Butte

Two brick buildings left from Butte's Chinatown, and a store whose goods came home after seventy years away.

View details →

Architecture

The Montana State Capitol in Helena, sandstone wings and a copper dome lit at dusk above a sloping lawn and flower bed

Montana State Capitol

Helena

A copper-domed capitol won in a copper kings' election, with a Russell painting that put the Salish at the center.

View details →

Stories from Butte, Helena & the Gold Country

History

Others Take Notice

In the summer of 1917 an IWW organizer on crutches came to Butte to back the miners' strike. Two weeks later six masked men hanged him from a railroad trestle. No one was ever charged.

4 min read

Butte, Helena & the Gold Country rewards the unhurried. Pick a base, fan out, and let the country between the headline stops surprise you.

← Explore more of Open Road Guide