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The tuff spires of Smith Rock above junipers and the Crooked RiverU.S. Forest Service, Pacific Northwest Region / public domain via Wikimedia Commons
🏜️Geological

Smith Rock State Park

Part ofCentral Oregon

Ridges of welded tuff from what geologists call Oregon's greatest eruption, cut by the Crooked River into orange walls and a 350-foot spire called Monkey Face.

PhotographyHiking
⏱
Duration
An hour at the rim; half a day for Misery Ridge.
📅
Best Season
Spring and fall; summer mornings before the heat.

The Story

About thirty million years ago, 29.5 million by one estimate, a volcano in what is now central Oregon erupted so violently that the ground over its magma chamber collapsed, leaving a caldera some twenty miles across; Prineville sits inside it today. The eruption filled the hole with ash and pumice that settled and fused into rock, and the welded tuff on the caldera's western rim is Smith Rock. Rhyolite later pushed up into cracks in it. About half a million years ago basalt from vents miles away flowed in and capped much of the tuff, and the Crooked River has since cut down through both, looping around the ridge and exposing its orange and purple walls.

The tuff erodes unevenly, into pockets, edges and freestanding pillars, the texture that made it famous among climbers. The most striking pillar is Monkey Face, a spire of some 350 feet at the west end of the ridge; its easiest route was first climbed in 1960, its hardest, Just Do It, in 1992. Golden eagles and prairie falcons nest in the walls, and one formation, the Monument, is closed to climbing from mid-January through July while eagles raise their young. River otters and beavers work the river below.

From the rim beside the parking area a trail drops to a footbridge across the Crooked River. The Misery Ridge Trail climbs the face to the crest and drops past Monkey Face, a loop of about four miles and a thousand feet of climbing with the River Trail; the River Trail itself is nearly level. Summer afternoons are hot and shadeless, and the lots fill early on weekends.

Visitor Info

⏱
Time Needed
An hour at the rim; half a day for Misery Ridge.
📅
Best Season
Spring and fall; summer mornings before the heat.
🛣️
Highway
US-97

On the Map

Nearby

The closest stops worth working into your route

cultural28 mi away
The Museum at Warm Springs
Oregon's first tribal museum, built because the three tribes of Warm Springs watched their families' heirlooms leaving the reservation and decided to buy them back.
geological46 mi away
Big Obsidian Flow
Oregon's youngest lava flow, a square mile of black volcanic glass and gray pumice that poured out inside Newberry's caldera about 1,300 years ago.
geological47 mi away
Painted Hills
Hills banded red, gold and tan that are not painted rock at all but ancient soils, formed on volcanic ash over millions of years as the climate changed.
geological69 mi away
Fort Rock
A ring of volcanic rock standing alone on a dry lakebed, born when rising magma hit water and later carved by the waves of a lake that surrounded it as an island.
architectural72 mi away
Timberline Lodge
A lodge raised by hand by relief workers in 1936-38, from boulders off the mountain and iron forged from old railroad rails, and dark for an unpaid power bill less than twenty years later.
natural83 mi away
Silver Falls State Park
Ten waterfalls in a logged-over canyon whose owner once charged a dime admission and pushed junk cars off the edge for the crowd, until a photographer got it made a park.