US-160 winds west through the red mesas and grassy slopes of the Red Hills in Barber County.
Abenneth / CC BY-SA 4.0 via Wikimedia Commons
Kansas · Region

The Red Hills & Medicine Lodge

Red gypsum-capped mesas, the 1867 treaty ground at Medicine Lodge, Carry Nation's house, Greensburg's Big Well and Meade's once-artesian springs.

7 places to explore

South of the Arkansas the plains break into red mesas and buttes, the Gyp Hills of Barber, Comanche and Clark counties. The rock is Permian, laid down in the remnants of an inland sea about 260 million years ago, stained by iron oxide and capped with gypsum that holds up the hilltops and dissolves into caves below. Of the 528 caves cataloged in Kansas, 245 are in Comanche and Barber counties.

This was hunting country for the Kiowa, Comanche, Plains Apache, Cheyenne and Arapaho, and in October 1867 those five nations met the government's Peace Commission where Elm Creek joins the Medicine River, just below the town of Medicine Lodge. The treaties signed there gave up most of their land for reservations in Indian Territory, and when Congress later broke them, the Kiowa leader Lone Wolf took the case to the Supreme Court and lost.

US-160 is the spine of the region. From Medicine Lodge, where Carry A. Nation's house stands on the highway, the Gypsum Hills Scenic Byway runs 42 miles west toward Coldwater, and a 22-mile gravel loop leaves it for the middle of the hills. North on US-54, Greensburg rebuilt itself around its hand-dug well after the tornado of 2007. Southwest, at Meade, the hills give way to the High Plains.

What to See in The Red Hills & Medicine Lodge

7 places across the region, grouped by what they are.

Geology & Rock Formations

Gyp Hills Scenic Drive

Medicine Lodge

A 22-mile loop of mostly gravel road west of Medicine Lodge through red Permian mesas capped with white gypsum, past open range and cedar canyons in a county with more than a hundred cataloged gypsum caves.

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Natural Areas

The Meade State Park office under tall trees beside the park road on a cloudy day.

Meade State Park

Meade

An 80-acre fishing lake among springs south of Meade, in country once known for artesian wells that pushed groundwater up under its own pressure, before irrigation drew the water table down.

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Historic Sites

The white one-story Carry A. Nation house in Medicine Lodge with its long front porch, at dusk.

Carry A. Nation Home and Stockade Museum

Medicine Lodge

The small brick house on US-160 where Carry A. Nation lived from 1889 to 1902 and first led Medicine Lodge's temperance women against the town's liquor, shown together with a replica of the 1874 stockade.

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A 1969 black-and-white view across the grassy natural amphitheater at the Medicine Lodge Peace Treaty Site.

Medicine Lodge Treaty Site and Memorial Peace Park

Medicine Lodge

The council ground where five Plains nations met the Peace Commission in 1867, found again in 1926 by a Kiowa sergeant who was there as a boy, beside the town's pageant park.

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Towns & Gateways

Pioneer-Krier Museum

Ashland

Clark County's museum on US-160 in Ashland, where a ranch county's household goods share a wing with the aerobatic biplanes of Harold Krier and the records of miler Wes Santee.

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Architecture

The white sixteen-sided Fromme-Birney barn under dark storm clouds, with green fields and a rail fence in front.

Fromme-Birney Round Barn

Mullinville

A sixteen-sided horse barn of 1912 on the wheat country south of Mullinville, built for 28 draft horses and a French Percheron stallion and outdated by a tractor four years later.

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Attractions

Looking down the stone-lined Big Well in Greensburg, a white spiral staircase winding to the bottom.

Big Well Museum

Greensburg

Greensburg's hand-dug well of 1887 and 1888, 109 feet deep and 32 across, and the half-ton Brenham pallasite meteorite that was pulled from the rubble of the old museum after the 2007 tornado.

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The Red Hills & Medicine Lodge rewards the unhurried. Pick a base, fan out, and let the country between the headline stops surprise you.

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