A small lake in Crowley's Ridge State Park, with dark log park buildings and a dock along the far shore among bare winter trees and a bench in the foreground.
Dennis Adams, Federal Highway Administration / Public domain (U.S. DOT) via Wikimedia Commons
Arkansas · Region

Crowley's Ridge & the Upper Delta

Crowley's Ridge and the Upper Delta: Nodena's pottery, Black River courthouse towns, Dyess and Johnny Cash, a tenant farmers' union and Hemingway's Piggott barn.

11 places to explore

Long before Arkansas had a name, the palisaded village at Nodena stood on a bend of the Mississippi, from A.D. 1400 to 1650. The Encyclopedia of Arkansas names the Quapaw (Ogáxpa) as the people most likely descended from its farmers, and the Hampson Archeological Museum in Wilson keeps their pottery. Crowley's Ridge, a loess upland rising out of the flat Delta, is the setting for Crowley's Ridge State Park, where Civilian Conservation Corps crews built a lake and a stone-and-log pavilion around Benjamin Crowley's spring.

Rivers made the towns. Davidsonville on the Black River had Arkansas's first post office and courthouse until a rerouted road left it a ghost town. Powhatan kept its 1888 courthouse on the same river, and Jacksonport, where the White and Black rivers meet, shipped by steamboat until the railroad crossed at Newport. Old Independence Regional Museum in Batesville gathers the twelve counties of old Independence County, and both Powhatan and Jacksonport saw lynchings in the 1880s.

The 1930s are here too. The Dyess Colony, built for white families, raised Johnny Cash, and in Tyronza a union organized Black and white tenants in the same decade. Hemingway wrote in a Piggott barn, and Herman Davis is buried in Manila.

What to See in Crowley's Ridge & the Upper Delta

11 places across the region, grouped by what they are.

Hikes & Trails

A rustic two-level pavilion of logs on fieldstone piers, with a log railing along the upper deck, stands among bare trees at Crowley's Ridge State Park.

Crowley's Ridge State Park

Paragould

A 1933 state park on the loess hills of Crowley's Ridge, built around Benjamin Crowley's homestead spring and the stone-and-log pavilion, dam and cabins of the Civilian Conservation Corps.

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Historic Sites

An open steel framework outlines the shape of a two-story building on a gravel footprint with benches and an interpretive sign, set in lawn and trees under a cloudy sky.

Davidsonville Historic State Park

Pocahontas

The ghost-town site of Arkansas's first post office, courthouse and federal land office, on the Black River, with open-frame outlines of the courthouse and a dogtrot house.

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Herman Davis State Park

Manila

A one-acre state park in Manila around the grave and memorial of Pvt. Herman Davis, a duck-hunting guide who became a scout and sharpshooter in the First World War and was fourth on Pershing's list of heroes.

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The two-story brick Jacksonport courthouse with arched windows, a red Second Empire mansard roof and a cupola, seen from a brick walk across a lawn.

Jacksonport State Park

Newport

A steamboat port at the confluence of the White and Black rivers whose 1872 Second Empire courthouse, raised two feet to clear the floods, stands as the park museum.

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The white clapboard Cash family farmhouse with green shutters and a diamond-pattern porch rail, reached by a brick walk across a lawn under a cloudy sky.

Johnny Cash Boyhood Home

Dyess

A restored five-room farmhouse in the Dyess Colony, the New Deal resettlement town where Johnny Cash grew up from 1935, with the colony's Administration Building as its museum.

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A small one-story brick commercial building with three arched white-trimmed windows and a white door stands on a lawn in Powhatan Historic State Park.

Powhatan Historic State Park

Powhatan

A river port and county seat on the Black River whose 1888 courthouse, 1873 jail, log house and academy still stand where they were built, with a state archives branch in the same park.

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Southern Tenant Farmers Museum

Tyronza

A museum in the 1930s dry cleaner and filling station where leaders of the Southern Tenant Farmers Union met, telling the story of cotton tenancy and the Black and white union it produced.

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Towns & Gateways

A cast skeleton of a mastodon with long curved tusks stands in the museum atrium, with geologic-time displays on the wall behind it.

Arkansas State University Museum

Jonesboro

A free university museum in the Dean B. Ellis Library, with a mastodon cast, an Old Town Arkansas street, Native American and Rockabilly galleries and a tinkering studio, and the hub of the university heritage sites.

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Six gray Mississippian ceramic jars, bottles and a two-handled bowl on white display blocks inside a museum case at Hampson Museum State Park.

Hampson Archeological Museum State Park

Wilson

A free state museum on the town square in Wilson that holds the Nodena collection, one of the best Late Mississippian pottery collections known, from a palisaded village on the Mississippi occupied from A.D. 1400 to 1650.

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A white two-story clapboard house with a wraparound porch, balcony and gabled dormer stands beside a large bare oak in winter.

Hemingway-Pfeiffer Museum

Piggott

The Piggott house and barn where Ernest Hemingway visited his in-laws, the Pfeiffers, and worked on A Farewell to Arms in 1928, kept with the family's own Stickley furniture.

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The native-sandstone front of the former National Guard Armory in Batesville, with stepped parapets, tall windows and tan double doors, partly screened by trees.

Old Independence Regional Museum

Batesville

A Batesville museum in a 1936 WPA sandstone National Guard armory, telling the story of the twelve counties that once formed Independence County, with a research wing for local records.

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Crowley's Ridge & the Upper Delta rewards the unhurried. Pick a base, fan out, and let the country between the headline stops surprise you.

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