The San Bernardino Mountains crest above the valley, forested ridges dropping away to a floor buried under cloud.
Spaghettifier / CC BY-SA 4.0 via Wikimedia Commons
California · Region

Big Bear & the Rim of the World

Yuhaaviatam country above the Citrus Belt — the Rim of the World crest from Crestline through Lake Arrowhead to Big Bear, two dams built for oranges on the valley floor, Holcomb Valley's 1860 gold, and San Gorgonio at 11,503 feet.

10 places to explore

The San Bernardino Mountains come up off the valley floor in a single move. San Bernardino sits at about a thousand feet; Crestline, on the front face above it, sits at nearly five thousand, and Mount San Gorgonio behind the crest reaches 11,503 — the highest ground in Southern California. The road that links the mountain towns was named the Rim of the World, and for once the name is only describing what the shoulder does.

This is Yuhaaviatam country, the People of the Pines, one clan among the Maara'yam whom the Spanish filed under a single word, Serrano. They summered in the open pine up here and wintered on the floor below. In 1866 a militia raised in San Bernardino and sanctioned by the state spent thirty-two days killing them across this country. Fewer than thirty of the clan came down alive, and their descendants are the Yuhaaviatam of San Manuel Nation.

Gold turned up in Holcomb Valley in 1860, north of Big Bear, and made that hollow for a while the most populous place in the county. Loggers came up behind the miners, and the roads came up behind the timber: a wagon road cut through Waterman Canyon in 1852, Edward Daley's toll road in 1870, and eventually an automobile highway along the crest.

What actually shaped this mountain, though, was thirst on the floor. In 1884 Frank Brown threw a single granite arch across Bear Valley to water the Redlands groves some thirty miles below. Engineers said it would not hold; it held, and in 1912 John Eastwood replaced it with a multiple-arch dam that more than doubled the lake. West along the crest, the Arrowhead Reservoir Company began the same scheme at Little Bear in 1891 and lost. A California court ruled in 1913 that water could not be carried out of one watershed into another for irrigation, and by then the dam was already built. A Los Angeles syndicate bought the unfinished work, completed it in 1922, and sold the mountain as a resort instead.

So every lake up here is an engineering decision wearing scenery. Big Bear is the one that fed the oranges. Lake Arrowhead is the one that could not, and became a Norman village with a dance pavilion and a weekend crowd out of Hollywood. Lake Gregory at Crestline is the third, dammed with New Deal money in 1938 by another Redlands orange grower to stop the mountain's water draining off into the desert, and it became a park only after a tax revolt handed it to the county in 1977.

What to See in Big Bear & the Rim of the World

10 places across the region, grouped by what they are.

Geology & Rock Formations

Onyx Summit

Big Bear City

The highest pass any state highway crosses in Southern California, at the top of the long way into Big Bear.

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Natural Areas

Baldwin Lake Ecological Reserve

Big Bear City

Pebble plains occur in this valley and nowhere else on earth, and the flowers on them are small enough that you have to lie down.

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The bare rock summit of San Gorgonio Mountain above the tree line, a hiker resting among the stones, San Jacinto Peak across the pass beyond.

San Gorgonio Mountain

Angelus Oaks

The highest ground in Southern California, and the only summit down here that stands clear above the trees.

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Hikes & Trails

Lake Gregory at Crestline, pines and cabins along the far shore reflected in still water.

Lake Gregory

Crestline

A New Deal dam built by a Redlands orange grower, for the opposite reason to every other lake on this mountain.

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Historic Sites

Doble

Big Bear City

Three men with money reopened this mine and all three failed. The town is named after the second one.

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The Keller Peak fire lookout cab on its steel frame in 2018, a Forest Service sign below giving daily opening hours.

Keller Peak Fire Lookout

Running Springs

For ninety-eight years it watched this forest for smoke. In September 2024 a fire took it, and the steel frame is what is left.

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The octagonal dance pavilion at Lake Arrowhead Village, the one building left standing after the 1979 burn, now a restaurant.

Lake Arrowhead Village

Lake Arrowhead

A reservoir that lost in court and became a resort — and the 1920s village that made its name was burned down on purpose.

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Towns & Gateways

The white dome of the Big Bear Solar Observatory standing on its causeway out in the lake, the north shore behind it.

Big Bear Solar Observatory

Big Bear City

A reservoir dug for orange groves turned out to be one of the steadiest places on the continent to look at the sun.

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Industry & Mining

The 1912 Bear Valley Dam soon after completion, its row of concrete arches carrying a walkway, with Big Bear Lake behind.

Bear Valley Dam

Big Bear Lake

Big Bear Lake is an irrigation reservoir first, and in 1977 the town had to buy the dam to keep water in its own view.

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Attractions

SkyPark at Santa's Village

Skyforest

The Christmas park that opened six weeks before Disneyland, and franchised itself on advice from the McDonald brothers.

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Stories from Big Bear & the Rim of the World

History

The Water That Went Down

Three dams, one mountain, and a ridge line that decided all of them

5 min read

Big Bear & the Rim of the World rewards the unhurried. Pick a base, fan out, and let the country between the headline stops surprise you.

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