The fort here was built to watch a nation. The Rosebud Sioux Tribe calls its people the Sicangu Lakota Oyate, the Burnt Thigh People, and in 1879 General George Crook chose this bend of the Niobrara, about seven miles south of the reservation line and some forty miles from the Rosebud Agency, to keep watch over Spotted Tail's band of about 8,000 Sicangu. Soldiers built Fort Niobrara between April and November 1880. No fight came to it. Its garrisons included the 9th Cavalry in the 1880s and the 25th Infantry from 1902 to 1906, both Black regiments, and John J. Pershing served here in 1891. Valentine, founded in 1882, grew as the fort's market. The last troops marched out on July 28, 1906.
On January 11, 1912, an executive order made the old military reservation a preserve and breeding ground for native birds, and with help from the American Bison Society it became a home for bison and elk. Civilian Conservation Corps crews built a 21-mile big-game fence, dams and wells in the 1930s. A herd of about 350 bison grazes the grasslands now, with elk and both mule and white-tailed deer.
The refuge covers 19,131 acres, about two-thirds of it Sandhills. North of the river, 4,635 acres became Nebraska's first wilderness area in 1976. The Fort Falls Trail drops by stairs to a waterfall in a wooded canyon, and the visitor center on the old fort headquarters site shows fossils of a long-jawed mastodon, giant bison and three-toed horse found on the refuge.
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