Winter sunrise over the frozen north shore of Payette Lake, forested ridges dark against the clouds
Charles Knowles / CC BY 2.0 via Wikimedia Commons
Idaho · Region

The Payette River Mountains

The Boise Basin gold camps and Idaho City, once larger than Portland, the Chinese miners who stayed, Highway 55 up the Payette to McCall, and the three dams that closed the Snake to salmon.

5 places to explore

Gold was found in the Boise Basin in 1862, and by 1864 Idaho City, a camp of wood and canvas where Elk Creek meets Mores Creek, held some seven thousand people — larger than Portland, and by most accounts the largest town in the Pacific Northwest. It burned four times in six years. When the easy gold gave out, the miners who stayed were increasingly Chinese, working claims others had abandoned; by the 1870 census nearly half the people of the Boise Basin had been born in China. The Pon Yam House, a Chinese merchant's store of 1867, is one of the few buildings left from that community, and Placerville still stands in the pines a few miles on.

All of this was Newe and Nimiipuu country first — the 1863 treaty took the Payette Lake region from the Nez Perce along with the Wallowa — and the mountains stayed hard to reach. Highway 55 climbs the Payette from Horseshoe Bend through a whitewater canyon to Cascade and McCall, a lumber town turned lake resort on Payette Lake. Highway 21 runs northeast from Idaho City over the ridges toward Lowman and Stanley.

To the west, past the farm towns of the Weiser valley, the Snake enters the head of Hells Canyon. There Idaho Power's Brownlee, Oxbow and Hells Canyon dams, built between the late 1950s and 1967, stand one above another with no passage for fish. Salmon that once climbed the Snake into Idaho's high country now stop at the foot of the lowest.

What to See in The Payette River Mountains

5 places across the region, grouped by what they are.

Natural Areas

Hot water falling from a rock ledge into steaming pools beside the South Fork of the Payette at Kirkham

Kirkham Hot Springs

Lowman

Hot water pours off a ledge into pools at the edge of the South Fork Payette, a staircase down from the highway.

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Hikes & Trails

Banks and the North Fork Payette

Banks

Where the Payette's two forks meet, below fifteen miles of continuous Class V whitewater beside the highway.

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Historic Sites

Canvas cargo bags with yellow straps packed for air drop at the McCall smokejumper base

McCall Smokejumper Base

McCall

Where conscientious objectors in the Second World War parachuted onto forest fires, and were shunned in camp for it.

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Pon Yam House

Idaho City

The store of Idaho City's king merchant, where the Chinese of the Boise Basin bought cuttlefish, incense and firecrackers.

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Towns & Gateways

The green-tiled marquee of the Star Theater on State Street in downtown Weiser

Weiser

Weiser

Every June the fiddlers come to a farm town on the Snake, and the campground plays all night.

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Stories from The Payette River Mountains

History

The Town Under Roosevelt Lake

Idaho's last great gold stampede built a town on Monumental Creek in 1902. In 1909 a mudslide dammed the creek, and the town went under water

5 min read

The Payette River Mountains rewards the unhurried. Pick a base, fan out, and let the country between the headline stops surprise you.

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