Green rolling Smoky Hills rangeland with red sandstone outcrops and scattered cedars.
FUBAR007 / CC0 via Wikimedia Commons
Kansas · Region

The Smoky Hills

Post rock fences, Eisenhower's Abilene, Swedish Lindsborg, Rock City's concretions, the Garden of Eden at Lucas, Hays chalk fossils and a Pawnee earth lodge floor.

9 places to explore

The Smoky Hills are three belts of rock left by a Cretaceous sea, and a driver on I-70 crosses all of them. In the east the Dakota sandstone stands up as buttes and as the round concretions of Rock City. In the middle the Greenhorn Limestone gave settlers in a country without timber the stone for houses and fence posts, which is why this is called post rock country and why S. P. Dinsmoor could build a log cabin out of rock at Lucas. In the west the Niobrara chalk shows in the bluffs around Hays, where the Sternberg Museum keeps what the chalk has given up.

The region divides by its rivers. The Smoky Hill carries the interstate past Eisenhower's Abilene, Salina and Ellsworth to Hays, with Swedish Lindsborg on the same river south of Salina. The Solomon and the Saline run through the reservoir country of Waconda and Wilson lakes, and U.S. 36 follows the northern tier past Lebanon, near the geographic center of the lower 48.

This was Pawnee country before it was anyone else's. The Kitkehahki band built earth lodges on the Republican in the late 1700s, and the floor of one lies open in the museum near Republic. The Kaw met U.S. commissioners on Dry Turkey Creek in 1825, and the western counties were Cheyenne and Arapaho land when Fort Hays went up in 1865.

What to See in The Smoky Hills

9 places across the region, grouped by what they are.

Geology & Rock Formations

Large round sandstone concretions clustered on the ground at Rock City.

Rock City

Minneapolis

About two hundred sandstone spheres, many as big as a room, crowded into a strip of pasture above the Solomon River south of Minneapolis, where groundwater cemented them inside buried sand.

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Historic Sites

The battlemented sandstone shelter on top of Coronado Heights against a deep blue sky.

Coronado Heights

Lindsborg

A Dakota sandstone bluff 300 feet above the Smoky Valley north of Lindsborg, named by boosters for a Spanish visit that never happened here, with a WPA stone castle on top.

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The white two-story Eisenhower boyhood home in Abilene, with its porches and shade trees.

Eisenhower Presidential Library, Museum and Boyhood Home

Abilene

The six-room house on Southeast Fourth Street where David and Ida Eisenhower raised six sons, and the library, museum and chapel that grew up around it in south Abilene.

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The long, low stone guardhouse of 1872 at Fort Hays across a wide mown lawn, with trees and open prairie behind.

Fort Hays State Historic Site

Hays

The 1867 blockhouse, guardhouse and two officers' quarters of a post on Cheyenne and Arapaho land, and what the post surgeon's ledgers and a sold-off reservation left behind.

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The small restored Home on the Range cabin of stone and logs, with a shingled roof, under shade trees.

Home on the Range Cabin

Athol

Dr. Brewster Higley's 1872 homestead cabin on West Beaver Creek in Smith County, where he wrote the poem that became Home on the Range, kept on its ground by a farm couple who would not sell it.

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The round limestone Pawnee Indian Museum with its low shingled roof, seen across a winter pasture behind a white rail fence.

Pawnee Indian Museum State Historic Site

Republic

A Kitkahahki Pawnee village of the late 1700s above the Republican, where a museum shelters a lodge the women built and a family bundle carried out of Massacre Canyon and given back to this place.

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Towns & Gateways

The limestone Cabin Home of S. P. Dinsmoor in Lucas, surrounded by his tall concrete tree sculptures.

S. P. Dinsmoor's Garden of Eden

Lucas

A Civil War veteran's limestone log cabin in Lucas, ringed by forty-foot cement trees, Adam and Eve, and his Populist sermon on the people who crucify labor, with the builder himself in the mausoleum.

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Industry & Mining

The red-brick Smoky Valley Roller Mill, its name painted near the roofline, at the Old Mill Museum in Lindsborg.

Lindsborg Old Mill & Swedish Heritage Museum

Lindsborg

A roller mill of 1898 on the Smoky Hill that still turns over once a year, and a Swedish manor house shipped to the 1904 World's Fair and given to Lindsborg's college afterward.

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Attractions

The domed Sternberg Museum of Natural History and its rectangular wing above a parking lot in Hays.

Sternberg Museum of Natural History

Hays

Fort Hays State University's museum under the old Metroplex dome off I-70, built around a family of fossil hunters who started digging in the Kansas chalk and sandstone in the 1860s.

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The Smoky Hills rewards the unhurried. Pick a base, fan out, and let the country between the headline stops surprise you.

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