Red, purple and white bands of the Willwood Formation in the Gooseberry Badlands of the Bighorn Basin, sagebrush across the slope
James St. John / CC BY 2.0 via Wikimedia Commons
Wyoming · Region

Cody & the Bighorn Basin

The Medicine Wheel on Medicine Mountain, the hot springs Washakie sold on condition they stay free, Buffalo Bill's town and dam, and Heart Mountain's draft resisters.

5 places to explore

Near the crest of the Bighorn Mountains, 9,642 feet up on Medicine Mountain east of Lovell, limestone boulders laid in a ring about eighty feet across run in twenty-eight spokes to a central cairn. No one knows who built it or when; pottery found in it has been tied to the Shoshone and the Crow, and the Arapaho call it Hiieeinoonotii. It is a place of ceremony for many nations still, and visitors leave offerings on the fence around it. Designated a National Historic Landmark in 1970, it was renamed the Medicine Wheel/Medicine Mountain National Historic Landmark in 2011 to take in the sacred mountain around it.

The hot springs at Thermopolis lay inside the Wind River Reservation until 1896, when the Eastern Shoshone and Northern Arapaho, hungry with the bison gone, sold them to the United States for cattle and supplies. Washakie for the Shoshone and Sharp Nose for the Arapaho made the sale, and Washakie's condition was that the water stay free to everyone; the State Bath House still charges nothing. That same year William F. Cody laid out the town that bears his name on the Shoshone River. The federal dam in the canyon above it, finished in 1910 at 325 feet, was the tallest in the world. It was the Shoshone Dam until 1946 and has carried Buffalo Bill's name since.

Between August 1942 and November 1945 the War Relocation Authority held 13,997 Japanese Americans behind barbed wire at Heart Mountain, between Cody and Powell; at its peak its 10,767 people made it the third-largest town in Wyoming. When the draft was opened to the camps in 1944, the Heart Mountain Fair Play Committee urged young men to refuse induction from behind the wire to test the government's right to draft them. In June 1944 sixty-three of them were tried together in Cheyenne, the largest mass trial in Wyoming's history, and sentenced to three years in federal prison. President Truman pardoned them in 1947. An interpretive center opened on the camp site in 2011.

What to See in Cody & the Bighorn Basin

5 places across the region, grouped by what they are.

Natural Areas

Orange and cream travertine terraces of Hot Springs State Park along the Bighorn River at Thermopolis, red hills and cottonwoods beyond

Hot Springs State Park

Thermopolis

Wyoming's first state park: a thousand feet of banded travertine along the Bighorn, a 1916 swinging bridge, and a small bison herd on the hill.

View details →

Historic Sites

A War Relocation Authority photograph of the Heart Mountain camp: rows of tar-paper barracks along a dirt street, a man and two boys walking toward the camera, and Heart Mountain rising beyond

Heart Mountain Interpretive Center

Powell

The incarcerated cleared and watered the land; when the camp closed it went to veterans to homestead, and the barracks sold for a dollar each.

View details →
A row of old false-fronted log buildings at Old Trail Town in Cody, wagons parked in front and a dusting of snow on the hills

Old Trail Town

Cody

Bob Edgar's rescued log buildings, outlaw cabins and an Apsáalooke scout's home among them, rebuilt on the ground where Cody City was first laid out.

View details →

Towns & Gateways

Mounted bison standing and rolling among prairie grasses and sunflowers in an exhibit in the entrance hall of the Buffalo Bill Center of the West

Buffalo Bill Center of the West

Cody

A memorial begun the year Buffalo Bill died that grew, wing by stone-walled wing, into five museums and a library under one roof.

View details →

Legend Rock State Petroglyph Site

Thermopolis

Ten thousand years of images pecked into a sandstone cliff, most by the ancestors of the Eastern Shoshone, now behind a gate after vandalism.

View details →

Stories from Cody & the Bighorn Basin

Geology

The Real Colter's Hell

Most people think Colter's Hell is Yellowstone. The trappers' Colter's Hell is a warm, sulfurous stretch of the Shoshone River just west of Cody, and it was never the geyser field its own marker describes.

4 min read

Cody & the Bighorn Basin rewards the unhurried. Pick a base, fan out, and let the country between the headline stops surprise you.

← Explore more of Open Road Guide