The restored ward of the post hospital at Fort Richardson, with iron cots, mosquito netting, a wood stove pipe and a water barrel on a plank floor.
Pi3.124 / CC BY-SA 3.0 via Wikimedia Commons
Texas · Region

Wichita Falls & the Red River Crossings

Wichita Falls, the Chisholm Trail at Red River Station, Fort Belknap and the Brazos Reservation, Fort Richardson and the 1871 Salt Creek raid, and Archer City.

9 places to explore

This is the Red River border country, where the cattle trails crossed into Indian Territory and the army built its forts against the Comanche and Kiowa. Wichita Falls began on the Fort Worth and Denver City Railway in 1882. Its namesake falls on the Wichita River washed out in a flood in 1886, and the city built new ones in Lucy Park in 1987. The oil boom at nearby Burkburnett after 1918 made fortunes and swindles, and downtown still has the tiny brick building sold to investors as a skyscraper.

On the Chisholm Trail, herds crossed the Red River at Red River Station in Montague County. Fort Belknap, set up near the Brazos in 1851, was the anchor of the northern line, and nearby the Brazos Indian Reservation held Caddo, Wichita, Tonkawa and other people until settlers' hostility forced them north in 1859.

Fort Richardson at Jacksboro, built in 1867, was the northernmost of the post-war forts. In May 1871 Kiowa warriors attacked a freight wagon train at Salt Creek, killing seven teamsters, and Satanta and Big Tree were tried for it in a civil court at Jacksboro. Fort Richardson State Park and Historic Site keeps the hospital and other buildings. To the south, Archer City is Larry McMurtry's hometown and the setting of The Last Picture Show, and Graham and Throckmorton anchor the ranch country.

What to See in Wichita Falls & the Red River Crossings

9 places across the region, grouped by what they are.

Hikes & Trails

Lake Arrowhead State Park

Wichita Falls

A prairie park on the north shore of the Wichita Falls water-supply lake, which drowned the town of Halsell in 1965-66, with mesquite campsites, a lighted pier and more than 200 bird species.

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Historic Sites

Clay County 1890 Jail Museum

Henrietta

Henrietta's 1890 stone jail a block from the domed courthouse, now the county museum, with its original cells, a gallows that was never used and the sheriff's family quarters.

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Fort Belknap

Newcastle

The 1851 northern anchor of the first Texas frontier forts, on the Brazos below Newcastle, a Butterfield stop and the post beside the Brazos Reservation until its people were driven out in 1859.

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Fort Richardson State Park and Historic Site

Jacksboro

The northernmost post of the Texas frontier line, outside Jacksboro, where a stone hospital and six other buildings stand from 1867 and a later Guard unit became the Lost Battalion.

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Stonewall Saloon Museum

Saint Jo

Saint Jo's first permanent building, a stone saloon of 1873 with rooms upstairs for trail drovers, in a town named, the story goes, as a joke on a founder who did not drink.

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Towns & Gateways

Royal Theater

Archer City

Archer City's movie house, burned in 1965, given a false front for The Last Picture Show and brought back by the town in the 1990s as a working stage on Main Street.

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Architecture

Kell House Museum

Wichita Falls

The 1909 Classic Revival house of Frank Kell, the miller and railroad builder who helped make Wichita Falls a city, shown by guided tour with its family furniture still in place.

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Old Post Office Museum and Art Center

Graham

Graham's 1936 Art Moderne post office, with a New Deal mural by Alexandre Hogue inside, now the free museum of Young County in the town where the Texas cattle raisers first organized.

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Roadside Stops

World's Littlest Skyscraper

Wichita Falls

A four-story brick tower in downtown Wichita Falls, 40 feet tall and 10 feet wide, the leftover of a 1919 oil-boom office deal in which, the story goes, investors misread inches as feet.

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Wichita Falls & the Red River Crossings rewards the unhurried. Pick a base, fan out, and let the country between the headline stops surprise you.

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