Tennessee · Region

Shiloh & the Tennessee River

Mounds, battlefields and river towns along the Tennessee: Shiloh, Fort Donelson, Pickwick Landing and the Natchez Trace, with the Native and enslaved history told first.

12 places to explore

Long before Shiloh was a battlefield, it was a Native town. Mound builders raised earthworks above the Tennessee River, and the Chickasaw homeland ran west and south from these bluffs. The Cherokee (Tsalagi) crossed the river at Savannah on the Trail of Tears in 1838 and 1839, and the Natchez Trace, where Meriwether Lewis died in 1809, followed paths Native travelers had worn long before. Chickasaw and Cherokee claims both reached this stretch of the river.

The river then carried a harder history. At Shiloh in April 1862, more than 23,000 men were killed, wounded or missing in two days. At Fort Donelson that February, enslaved people reached the Union lines and built a camp they called the Free State. Johnsonville's supply depot, burned in 1864, was worked by Black soldiers and freedmen, and the Great Western Furnace ran on enslaved labor.

Today the drive is quieter: the Tennessee River Museum in Savannah, the lake at Pickwick Landing, and the cypress and woods of Big Hill Pond, Mousetail Landing and Cross Creeks. Counties here are small, the towns are far apart and the roads are slow. Give each stop an hour, and give Shiloh a full day, because the mounds, the battlefield and the river deserve more than a drive-through.

What to See in Shiloh & the Tennessee River

12 places across the region, grouped by what they are.

Natural Areas

Big Hill Pond State Park

Pocahontas

A 4,000-acre bottomland park in McNairy County built around a pond that railroad crews dug in 1853, with a 70-foot tower over Dismal Swamp and Civil War earthworks.

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Cross Creeks National Wildlife Refuge

Dover

An 8,862-acre refuge on the Cumberland River floodplain near Dover, made in 1962 to replace habitat Lake Barkley flooded, wintering tens of thousands of waterfowl.

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Natchez Trace State Park

Wildersville

A New Deal state park built on worn-out West Tennessee farmland, where the Fairfield Gullies show what erosion did and kudzu was planted to stop it.

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Hikes & Trails

Mousetail Landing State Park

Linden

A Perry County state park on the Tennessee River where a leather-shipping landing once stood, with ruins of its pier and blacksmith shop, a historic landing trail and quiet water trails.

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Pickwick Landing State Park

Counce

A state park beside TVA's Pickwick Landing Dam, a few miles north of the Mississippi and Alabama lines, with a lodge, marina, golf course, aviary and the lake the 1938 dam made.

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Historic Sites

Fort Donelson National Battlefield

Dover

The earthen fort above the Cumberland River where Grant's demand for unconditional surrender ended the February 1862 siege, with the Dover Hotel, a national cemetery and the story of the freedom seekers who came to the lines.

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Johnsonville State Historic Park

New Johnsonville

A Tennessee River park on the site of a Union supply depot shelled in November 1864 and of the town later drowned by Kentucky Lake, with earthworks, a railroad bed and an African American cemetery.

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Meriwether Lewis Site

Hohenwald

The place on the Natchez Trace Parkway where Meriwether Lewis died in October 1809, with his 1848 monument, a pioneer cemetery, a walk on the Old Trace and a free campground.

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Shiloh Indian Mounds

Shiloh

A National Historic Landmark on the Tennessee River bluff: the remains of a palisaded Mississippian-era town with seven mounds and the visible rings of its house sites, inside Shiloh National Military Park.

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Shiloh National Military Park

Shiloh

The April 6-7, 1862 battlefield above Pittsburg Landing on the Tennessee River, with the Hornets' Nest, Bloody Pond, a national cemetery and no entrance fee.

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Towns & Gateways

Tennessee River Museum

Savannah

A small museum in Savannah's 1939 post office with the Shiloh effigy pipe, a Trail of Tears river-crossing exhibit, a gunport replica from the USS Cairo and the largest petrified wood in the state.

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Industry & Mining

Great Western Furnace

Dover

A limestone iron furnace built in 1854 at the Tennessee end of Land Between the Lakes, run with enslaved labor and closed within two years, the last real trace of the town of Model.

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Scenic Drives through Shiloh & the Tennessee River

Scenic Byway

The Natchez Trace Parkway in Tennessee: The Alabama Line to Nashville

About 102 miles of the Natchez Trace Parkway in Tennessee, from the Alabama line past Meriwether Lewis's death site and the Gordon House to the northern terminus near Nashville.

102 mi · 2.5 hrs

Shiloh & the Tennessee River rewards the unhurried. Pick a base, fan out, and let the country between the headline stops surprise you.

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