Nebraska · Region

Pine Ridge & the Northwest

Fort Robinson and the Red Cloud Agency, Toadstool's badlands, Agate Fossil Beds and Red Cloud's gifts, the Museum of the Fur Trade, and Carhenge.

5 places to explore

This corner of Nebraska is Oglala Lakota and Northern Cheyenne country, and the Pine Ridge Reservation lies just over the South Dakota line. US-20 follows the Pine Ridge escarpment west from Chadron to Crawford and Harrison, through ponderosa-covered buttes where bighorn sheep were first returned to the state in 1981. North of the ridge the land breaks into the badlands of the Oglala National Grassland; south of it the Niobrara runs through ranch country, and the land flattens east toward Alliance and the Sandhills.

In 1873 the Red Cloud Agency moved to the White River, and the army camp that guarded it became Fort Robinson. Crazy Horse surrendered there in May 1877 and was killed there that September, and in January 1879 Morning Star's Northern Cheyenne broke out of its barracks in subzero cold rather than be sent back south. Sixty-four of them were killed.

The region's other anchors run from deep time to the roadside: the clay toadstools of the grassland, the Agate fossil quarries and the gifts Red Cloud gave a ranching family he counted as friends, the Museum of the Fur Trade on the site of James Bordeaux's trading post, and Carhenge, a circle of gray cars in a field north of Alliance.

What to See in Pine Ridge & the Northwest

5 places across the region, grouped by what they are.

Geology & Rock Formations

Toadstool Geologic Park

Crawford

A pocket of badlands in the Oglala National Grassland where sandstone caps balance on clay stems, ancient tracks cross the rock, and a trail leads on to a 10,000-year-old bison bone bed.

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Historic Sites

Fort Robinson State Park

Crawford

The army post beside the Red Cloud Agency where Crazy Horse was bayoneted in 1877 and Morning Star's Northern Cheyenne broke out into the January cold of 1879.

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Towns & Gateways

Agate Fossil Beds National Monument

Harrison

A fossil quarry on the Niobrara that also keeps the gifts Red Cloud and other Lakota and Cheyenne visitors gave the ranching family who were their friends for thirty-five years.

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Museum of the Fur Trade

Chadron

A museum of what traders and Native nations exchanged, from the oldest known point blanket to a Lakota leader's silver cross, beside the rebuilt Bordeaux trading post east of Chadron.

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Roadside Stops

Carhenge

Alliance

A son's memorial to his father on the family farm north of Alliance: Stonehenge copied to scale in old American cars sprayed gray, dedicated at the 1987 summer solstice.

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Scenic Drives through Pine Ridge & the Northwest

Scenic Byway

NE-2: The Sandhills Journey, Grand Island to Alliance

About 277 miles on NE-2 from Grand Island to Alliance: the Stuhr Museum, Butcher's homesteader photographs at Broken Bow, the Middle Loup, the planted forest at Halsey, the Spade's town and the potash ruins at Antioch.

277 mi · 5 hrs

Stories from Pine Ridge & the Northwest

History

Chadron to Chicago

In 1893 a joke planted in eastern newspapers turned into a thousand-mile horse race from a Pine Ridge railroad town to Buffalo Bill's arena at the Chicago World's Fair, and its result is still argued.

3 min read

Pine Ridge & the Northwest rewards the unhurried. Pick a base, fan out, and let the country between the headline stops surprise you.

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